Unusual Varietals
Diversity in Wine
Page 12


Fiano
Mastroberardino
Avellino
Italy
Winemakers Mastroberardino champion the Fiano variety and plant it among hazlenut trees on slopes above Avellino. It's an ancient variety that was known to the Romans as Apiano.
The wine is dry and full flavoured, but I found an unattractive undertaste that I couldn't quite place. I was in the minority as it was popular with others who variously identified the taste as reminiscent of apricot skins or nuts.
Trousseau
Wild Horse
Cienega Valley
California
Trousseau is probably the same as the Portuguese Bastardo grape which is a major component in Port, but could alternatively be the grape also known as Petite Sirah in California. At this moment, the jury (Jancis Robinson and Anthony Hawkins) seems to be out.
St Laurent
Kremstel
Austria
Austria is about the only place growing St Laurent, though there are a few hectares in neighbouring Germany. It makes a useful red wine and some think it is a mutation of the great Pinot Noir.

Thanks to Julia Sevenich for the image. Read her enthralling articles about living the wine life in Austria at www.stratsplace.com/7ich

A Black Cock Guarantees Satisfaction - The best Chianti comes from its central Classico region, signified by an ancient symbol of a black cock on the neck label.
Phoenix
Three Choirs
Gloucestershire
England
I am in love. Sauvignon Blanc used to be my favourite but then along came Phoenix. I first tasted Phoenix before its name was allowed on the label. Now the variety has been approved by the EU and Three Choirs has released the worlds first varietal wine labelled Phoenix, estate grown and bottled by winemaker Martin Fowke.
Why do I love it? The taste is like a more intense Sauvignon Blanc. Like the best New Zealand SB in the best year. It is a crisp fruity dry wine with the flavours of an English hedgerow, reminiscent of nettles and gooseberries. Like Sauvignon Blanc only more so. Phoenix is a cross of Seyval Blanc and Bacchus.

The label from the first release of Phoenix before its name could be shown on the label is on this site on the second page of the labels section, click here to go there.

Phenomenal Fume Blanc - the name says it all! How they made a best seller from a wine that no one wanted.
Corvina
Corte Giara
Verona
Italy
Most often used as a component in Valpolicella and Bardolina, this varietal Corvina makes a pleasant light quaffing wine.
Lemberger
Unterturkheim
Wurtemberg
Germany
This Lemberger was a light fruity red wine I enjoyed with dinner in Germany recently. It is a variety similar to Beaujolais' Gamay and known elsewhere as Blaufrankisch.

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4 March 2001
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